gary1957 said:
paying a tax bill NOW, voluntarily, when nobody's making me, feels insane
Gary, I sat exactly where you're sitting, so let me answer as someone a few steps down the same road, not as an advisor. Short version: a Roth conversion is a genuine strategy, not a sales trick, and the low-income years after you retire and before Social Security and required withdrawals kick in are the textbook window for it. What your fee-only guy described is the standard version of it. Whether it's right for YOUR numbers is the part neither he nor I can settle in a forum, but here's the shape of it so you can ask better questions.
What you're actually buying: you pay ordinary income tax now on the amount you move, and in exchange that money grows and comes out tax-free forever, with no required minimum distributions on it later. Richard just described the flip side of not doing it, the deferred pile that turns into forced, taxable withdrawals at 73. "Filling up the 12% bracket" means converting just enough each year to reach the top of that bracket without spilling into the next one, so you're deliberately paying tax at a low rate you may never see again once Social Security and RMDs stack on top. The mechanics of the traditional-versus-Roth trade are laid out in traditional vs Roth if you want the fuller version.
Now the conditions and the traps, because this is where "good idea" turns into "good idea for the wrong person." First, Carolyn is pointing at a real wire: Medicare uses a two-year lookback, so a conversion you do at 63 can raise your Part B and Part D premiums at 65, and it's a cliff, one dollar over a threshold bumps the whole surcharge. That doesn't mean don't convert, it means size each year's conversion with that threshold in view. I wrote up how that surcharge works in Medicare's income surcharge. Second, pay the tax from money OUTSIDE the IRA if you possibly can; using the IRA itself to pay the tax shrinks the whole point and can mean an early-withdrawal penalty if you're under 59 and a half, though at 63 you're clear of that. Third, conversions are irreversible now, there's no undo, so you don't want to convert a big chunk in a year that turns out to have other income you forgot about. Fourth, don't ignore state income tax, some people convert after moving to a lower-tax state. And the honest exception: if you'll actually be in the same or a lower bracket for the rest of your life, or you need that money within five years, the case gets much weaker.
The reason I trust your setup more than most: a flat-fee advisor with nothing to sell has no reason to push conversions except that the math works for you, which is the opposite of the annuity "consultant" I hung up on years ago. Ask him to show you the projected RMDs and tax bracket at 75 with and without the conversions, in actual dollars. If he can put that on one page, you'll see the answer yourself. A tax professional running your real return for the year is the other half of the team, and that's exactly what they're for.